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Hello again, and sorry by not posting anything for a long time, I've been a bit busy with University stuff and other projects.
I'll talk about how I use the hyperfocal rule, which is very useful, especially shooting in low light conditions, like in the night. You'll need a lantern and a camera. And it'd be great if you had an smartphone, you'll find out why if you continue reading.
The hyperfocal rule serves to calculate at which distance we should focus to make not only the foreground subject appear focused (whatever: a house, a tree, etc), but the background as well (the infinite point focused, so that stars, for example, appear focused too). This distance will depend on many factors: the aperture, the focal lenght, the circle of confusion, etc. But fortunately this won't be a maths class: you can download apps for your smartphone or find on the internet hyperfocal distances for your camera depending on these factors, so that you'll have to calculate nothing. I use an app and I only have to put the focal lenght, the camera I'm using and the aperture value, and I'll get the hyperfocal distance.
What do I do after the app calculates this distance? Easy!, I place myself with a lantern in front of the camera at (more or less) that distance, and I focus to the lantern. And that's all, my scene will appear focused, both in foreground and background/infinite point.
I'll talk about how I use the hyperfocal rule, which is very useful, especially shooting in low light conditions, like in the night. You'll need a lantern and a camera. And it'd be great if you had an smartphone, you'll find out why if you continue reading.
The hyperfocal rule serves to calculate at which distance we should focus to make not only the foreground subject appear focused (whatever: a house, a tree, etc), but the background as well (the infinite point focused, so that stars, for example, appear focused too). This distance will depend on many factors: the aperture, the focal lenght, the circle of confusion, etc. But fortunately this won't be a maths class: you can download apps for your smartphone or find on the internet hyperfocal distances for your camera depending on these factors, so that you'll have to calculate nothing. I use an app and I only have to put the focal lenght, the camera I'm using and the aperture value, and I'll get the hyperfocal distance.
What do I do after the app calculates this distance? Easy!, I place myself with a lantern in front of the camera at (more or less) that distance, and I focus to the lantern. And that's all, my scene will appear focused, both in foreground and background/infinite point.
Epic pics' - Volume II
The work is huge. By browsing a bit over this website I easily find amazing pictures without the deserved appreciation. I keep putting my hopes on these journals helping them get the deserved visibility and helping them get finally well-rated.
Here's another bunch of images to enjoy (and again, I strongly suggest you to show some support by faving or commenting or doing some sort of interaction with the artists).
Hope you enjoyed them. If you spot any great, underrated work don't doubt on sending me a note and I'll probably add it in further features.
Epic pics' - Volume I
Hello, after a long break I'm back on dA and during this time one idea has been constantly crossing my mind: there are lots of great pictures on this site which are totally undiscovered and underrated. This is the reason I'm featuring here some of these photos which are amazing but which I believe they haven't become too popular.
In case you like any of the pictures (or all of them, which I hope!) I strongly suggest you to interact by faving, commenting, etc. That's some extra fuel for we all photographers, and I'm sure they'll appreciate it, and it'll also encourage them to continue working.
Hope you enjoyed it, I'm looking forward to make
Alternative lenses: Helios 44M-4 f/2 58mm REVIEW
Hello! After a while not posting anything at all I wanted to share my views on one alternative lens I got not long ago, and also share some shots using this glass. The lens is a Soviet Helios 44M-4 58mm f/2 lens.
Introducing the lens:
From what I've read about it before I got it, it's one of the most popular lenses from the former USSR (soviets were really good at photography equipment so I decided to give it a try). The lens was made by the brand Zenit, one of the most famous from the USSR. It's a small, simple-built lens.
It's a fixed focal lens (58mm) and its maximum aperture is f/2, making it really bright.
Price: on eBay you can get t
DIY: Dark filters for Monochrome long exposure
Hello! After a break I'm back with Journal entries and this time I think we'll go a bit further than just shooting with things we buy built: we'll build a filter ourselves.
Which filter will we build? For what it can be useful?
We'll be making a dark filter with a welding glass (those glasses you put in the welding mask not to get your eyes burnt with all the light coming from welding). These glasses have a green dominant, that's why we should turn them into monochrome (B/W, Sepia, etc) in postprocessing. The best thing is that I got the glass in a hardware shop for only 2 euro!
Personally I've glued a 77mm ring (for my Sigma 10-20, check
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Hmmm, that's interesting, I thought of looking for ways to make my camera (A point and shoot) work better in low light conditions, I know this is about smartphones and not cameras, but still, hmmmm