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EDIT: I've created the chatroom #Phototalks (chat.deviantart.com/chat/Photo…) to talk about photography tips, tricks, doubts, and all these things. Also some general talking is allowed. I'll probably be there if you join.
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Okay so, this complicates a little bit. Because of the Earth's rotation, when we put a long exposure time all the stars appear moving, excepting one: the Polaris (the circumpolar star), and, in the picture, the traces of the rest of the stars will turn around this Polaris star. The objective,then, will be getting results like these: marioguti.deviantart.com/art/L…
You'll need a tripod, a DSLR camera and a remote control or delay trigger.
I'll post the different steps I follow when I make these kinds of pictures:
1 - I find the Polaris (okay, I'm not an astronomer, so my mobile phone does so for me, there are Apps for iPhone and Android like Google Sky Map, with which it's easy to find it).
2 - I compose the picture having in count where the Polaris is.
3 - I focus, most times using hyperfocal rules (I'll talk about it soon, don't worry, but you can have a look at this if you're impatient to try it: www.cambridgeincolour.com/tuto…). It's strongly reccomended to use them because we must get the infinite focused, if not the star traces won't look too good. There are Apps which calculate the hyperfocal distance (basically, at this calculated distance you must put yourself with a lantern and focus)
4 - I calculate the right exposure time, for that, I use the reciprocity rule (I'll also talk about this). There are also Apps which calculate this. Basically, you calculate the right exposure time for high ISO levels and then the App calculates, according to these results you got for high ISO, the right exposure time for ISO 100, or ISO 200 or whatever ISO you want to use (ISO 100 reccomended, since you'll use long exposure times and it's not neccesary to turn it higher).
5 - I turn off the noise reduction so that it doesn't take long processing. Why so? Because I'll make 2 or more pictures and then I'll merge them, so, if we don't want the traces to be divised by 2 or more parts, the time between shots must be the lowest possible.
6 - I make 2 or more pictures with the same settings. (you can also make only one but more noise because of long exposure will appear. Plus some cameras have time limitations.
7 - I merge them using a software called Starstax, which unites lights but doesn't double the exposure or anything. It detects the highlights (in this case, the traces) and unites them. To enter the pictures into this programme, they have to be in .TIFF format, so you can change the raw files into .TIFF when you export them through Lightroom, or with other softwares like Photoshop.
8 - I touch the last things in Photoshop, and that's all!
EXIF data and other details for this photo (marioguti.deviantart.com/art/L…):
2 pictures of 1182 seconds and ISO 100, and another one of 30 seconds and ISO 800 to get the man with the lantern. The 3 pictures at f/4 and a focal lenght of 10mm. Merged with Starstax.
Okay, this can get complicated at first, but once you make it once or twice this gets easier If you try it, tell me about the results you got, problems, or others, please! I want to know
__________________________________________
Okay so, this complicates a little bit. Because of the Earth's rotation, when we put a long exposure time all the stars appear moving, excepting one: the Polaris (the circumpolar star), and, in the picture, the traces of the rest of the stars will turn around this Polaris star. The objective,then, will be getting results like these: marioguti.deviantart.com/art/L…
You'll need a tripod, a DSLR camera and a remote control or delay trigger.
I'll post the different steps I follow when I make these kinds of pictures:
1 - I find the Polaris (okay, I'm not an astronomer, so my mobile phone does so for me, there are Apps for iPhone and Android like Google Sky Map, with which it's easy to find it).
2 - I compose the picture having in count where the Polaris is.
3 - I focus, most times using hyperfocal rules (I'll talk about it soon, don't worry, but you can have a look at this if you're impatient to try it: www.cambridgeincolour.com/tuto…). It's strongly reccomended to use them because we must get the infinite focused, if not the star traces won't look too good. There are Apps which calculate the hyperfocal distance (basically, at this calculated distance you must put yourself with a lantern and focus)
4 - I calculate the right exposure time, for that, I use the reciprocity rule (I'll also talk about this). There are also Apps which calculate this. Basically, you calculate the right exposure time for high ISO levels and then the App calculates, according to these results you got for high ISO, the right exposure time for ISO 100, or ISO 200 or whatever ISO you want to use (ISO 100 reccomended, since you'll use long exposure times and it's not neccesary to turn it higher).
5 - I turn off the noise reduction so that it doesn't take long processing. Why so? Because I'll make 2 or more pictures and then I'll merge them, so, if we don't want the traces to be divised by 2 or more parts, the time between shots must be the lowest possible.
6 - I make 2 or more pictures with the same settings. (you can also make only one but more noise because of long exposure will appear. Plus some cameras have time limitations.
7 - I merge them using a software called Starstax, which unites lights but doesn't double the exposure or anything. It detects the highlights (in this case, the traces) and unites them. To enter the pictures into this programme, they have to be in .TIFF format, so you can change the raw files into .TIFF when you export them through Lightroom, or with other softwares like Photoshop.
8 - I touch the last things in Photoshop, and that's all!
EXIF data and other details for this photo (marioguti.deviantart.com/art/L…):
2 pictures of 1182 seconds and ISO 100, and another one of 30 seconds and ISO 800 to get the man with the lantern. The 3 pictures at f/4 and a focal lenght of 10mm. Merged with Starstax.
Okay, this can get complicated at first, but once you make it once or twice this gets easier If you try it, tell me about the results you got, problems, or others, please! I want to know
Epic pics' - Volume II
The work is huge. By browsing a bit over this website I easily find amazing pictures without the deserved appreciation. I keep putting my hopes on these journals helping them get the deserved visibility and helping them get finally well-rated.
Here's another bunch of images to enjoy (and again, I strongly suggest you to show some support by faving or commenting or doing some sort of interaction with the artists).
Hope you enjoyed them. If you spot any great, underrated work don't doubt on sending me a note and I'll probably add it in further features.
Epic pics' - Volume I
Hello, after a long break I'm back on dA and during this time one idea has been constantly crossing my mind: there are lots of great pictures on this site which are totally undiscovered and underrated. This is the reason I'm featuring here some of these photos which are amazing but which I believe they haven't become too popular.
In case you like any of the pictures (or all of them, which I hope!) I strongly suggest you to interact by faving, commenting, etc. That's some extra fuel for we all photographers, and I'm sure they'll appreciate it, and it'll also encourage them to continue working.
Hope you enjoyed it, I'm looking forward to make
Alternative lenses: Helios 44M-4 f/2 58mm REVIEW
Hello! After a while not posting anything at all I wanted to share my views on one alternative lens I got not long ago, and also share some shots using this glass. The lens is a Soviet Helios 44M-4 58mm f/2 lens.
Introducing the lens:
From what I've read about it before I got it, it's one of the most popular lenses from the former USSR (soviets were really good at photography equipment so I decided to give it a try). The lens was made by the brand Zenit, one of the most famous from the USSR. It's a small, simple-built lens.
It's a fixed focal lens (58mm) and its maximum aperture is f/2, making it really bright.
Price: on eBay you can get t
DIY: Dark filters for Monochrome long exposure
Hello! After a break I'm back with Journal entries and this time I think we'll go a bit further than just shooting with things we buy built: we'll build a filter ourselves.
Which filter will we build? For what it can be useful?
We'll be making a dark filter with a welding glass (those glasses you put in the welding mask not to get your eyes burnt with all the light coming from welding). These glasses have a green dominant, that's why we should turn them into monochrome (B/W, Sepia, etc) in postprocessing. The best thing is that I got the glass in a hardware shop for only 2 euro!
Personally I've glued a 77mm ring (for my Sigma 10-20, check
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Nunca lo lei mejor explicado!
Felicitaciones!
Vere si en estas vacaciones puedo hacer algo parecido.
No entiendo bien que es lo que tengo que buscar cuando te referis a Polaris. Es una estrella? Funciona esto en el hemisferio sur? tengo que buscar otra estrella? Aaarg! jajaja
Felicitaciones!
Vere si en estas vacaciones puedo hacer algo parecido.
No entiendo bien que es lo que tengo que buscar cuando te referis a Polaris. Es una estrella? Funciona esto en el hemisferio sur? tengo que buscar otra estrella? Aaarg! jajaja